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Maybe the apple doesn’t absolutely charge yet addition purveyor of American cuisine, but the month-old Stanford Kitchen does it with appearance and snap, giving a acceptable addition to the dining arena in Owings Mills.

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Never apperception that the restaurant has a banausic area — aloof addition of those cookie-cutter band centers that dot and abase suburbia. But central offers a not-too-big dining allowance comfortable with booths and tables, added by a soundtrack of air-conditioned jazz, which, enticingly, aboriginal greets you through speakers outside.

The attending (and the jazz) will be accustomed to assemblage of the beyond Stanford Grill in Columbia, allotment of the Blueridge Restaurant Group that developed Stanford Kitchen to accept a adjacency vibe. There are some carryovers from the Stanford Grill card (I am decidedly beholden that the key adhesive pie is amid them), but there are abundant added appearance to accord the newcomer its own characteristic personality.

Aided by an extra-personable, accessible server (and abutment staff), we acclimatized into a well-paced banquet arranged with acceptable versions of accepted fare, the affectionate that put the abundance in abundance food.

The meatloaf is a abundant case in point. It didn’t attending like aloof addition accepted meatloaf, and the arrangement absolutely didn’t arm-twist accepted meat loaf. This super-tender melange of arena beef and agrarian augment access with deep, affluent flavor, added by a portobello Madeira wine sauce. If the accompanying mashed potatoes and broccolini lacked the aforementioned akin of imagination, they accomplished their role ably.

There wasn’t a abruptness agency with the pork ribs, except that they lived up to the fall-off-the-bone affiance of the card and appear a acceptable breeze from the barbecue sauce. Aloof as acceptable were a coleslaw that tasted as if it were fabricated abnormal before, and perfect, attenuate French chips that would calmly canyon aggregation at the snootiest Parisian bistro.

Stanford Kitchen has a featured sandwich anniversary day. A veggie burger is consistently offered. So is the cheeseburger, which we tried. Lots of places accomplish a acceptable burger, but it’s consistently fun advertent another; this one offered first-rate Angus beef, pickles and added acceptable fixings. Straightforward and satisfying.

Entree specials the night we were there included broiled trout. It was adapted maybe half-a-minute best than ideal, but the filet, cautiously flavored with lemon, still impressed; the centermost had a admirable flakiness. The abandon of rice and broccoli were spot-on.

The kitchen is aloof as alert to starters. A bland spinach-artichoke dip, served with chips instead of pita, exuded able-bodied flavor. Chicken meatballs had affluence of character, aided by a accomplished marinara sauce.

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If, like me, you tend to abstain acclimation calamari because it so generally turns out to be a adhering disappointment, the tender, agilely absurd adaptation here, dusted with Parmesan, should restore your faith. It was so appetizing on its own that I didn’t bother abundant with dipping into the accompanying marinara.

For pre-meal libations, the abode affair are account considering. The fleur de lis — vodka, St. Germain liqueur, close bake-apple flavors — has a alluring aroma custom-built for summer sipping. The bar turns out a almighty martini, too. And the wine account includes such respectable, easy-on-the-wallet bottles as a Joel Gott 815 Cabernet.

There are alone three desserts, and there needn’t be any more. These angry out to be gems of caloric delight. The key adhesive pie was on par with the aces one I affectionately anamnesis from a roadside bazaar years ago in Davie, Fla. The ice chrism sundae hit the spot; the appealing and active aliment pudding hit it alike harder.

There’s a lot to be said for a restaurant that treats acceptable old American book as if it were new and exciting. Stanford Kitchen does aloof that.

10997 Owings Mills Blvd., Owings Mills

410-902-1000, stanfordkitchen.com

Cuisine: American

Prices: Appetizers $7 to $12; entrees $15 to $30

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Ambience: The aggregate of chic architecture and accidental vibe yields a alive arena that can be noisy, but, somehow, in a acceptable way.

Service: Extremely affable and assured

Reservations: Accepted

Parking: Surface lot

Special diets: They can be accommodated.

Wheelchair accessible: Yes

[Key: Superlative: 5 stars; Excellent: 4 stars; Very good: 3 stars; Good: 2 stars; Promising: 1 star]

Chris Becker, a chef and the above CEO of Bagby Restaurant Group, has died, according to a Towson burial home. 

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Chris Becker, a chef and the above CEO of Bagby Restaurant Group, has died, according to a Towson burial home. 

The Broward Sheriff’s Office said in a cheep Monday afternoon that “The developed macho that was taken to the hospital has been arresting dead.”

The Broward Sheriff’s Office said in a cheep Monday afternoon that “The developed macho that was taken to the hospital has been arresting dead.”

tim.smith@baltsun.com

twitter.com/clefnotes

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