Silk Bar Kitchen10344 105 Street (beside the Quest address tower)780-264-1444Silkbarkitchen.com
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Tues. to Fri. 5 p.m. to 1 a.m.Sat. apex to 12 a.m.Sun. apex to 2 a.m.Closed Monday
Food: 3.5 of 5 SunsAmbience: 2.5 of 5 SunsService: 3 of 5 Suns
Dinner for two, aloof aliment – basal $35, loaded $65
By GRAHAM HICKS
The aliment acquaintance in Edmonton is actuality attenuated into the bar/lounge experience.
It is not a decidedly affable picture. Full evenings of accidental but affected dining — aggressive by RGE RD and Corso 32, in about-face aggressive by the brand of the Hardware Grill – are actuality replaced by lounges alms added circuitous bar aliment than in the past.
When you airing into Silk Bar Kitchen, you are not walking into a alive restaurant for a 6:30 p.m. dinner.
You are walking into a near-empty bar, that two hours afterwards is still about empty, and acceptable won’t alpha bushing up until backward evening.
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Given the aliment and a chef’s touch, Silk care to accept at atomic a baby banquet crowd.
But why banquet in a dark, dim atmosphere back it’s brilliant and hot outside, at a few tables amidst by bar stools and booths? (A patio is actuality installed but as of aftermost anniversary was not open.) As we were eating, not three metres away, the DJ began ambience up for the night ahead.
Silk is far added bar than kitchen.
Silk is a bar with acceptable food, not a restaurant!
That said, Chef Earl Briones (LUX, Famoso, Union Bank Inn) has created a card that satisfies the bar army with variations on the accepted fries, pizzas, angle tacos and sliders. Then he active to added adventuresome area for those absorbed in an absolute dining acquaintance … as against to candied ‘n’ brittle deep-fried tidbits to go with beer and/or cocktails.
The seared basa on cous cous looked interesting, as did a Moroccan chicken, braised abbreviate ribs with a attic adhesive slaw, additional papaya and Caprese salads.
Among the desserts was an intriguingly called Burst Tiramisu. Said our pretty, affable adolescent server who knew actually annihilation about food, “if you accident the top, all the gooeyness comes out.”
Calamari is consistently a litmus analysis for a kitchen, this one, sigh, breaded and deep-fried, not afresh grilled. Hello? It’s a bar! But the breading was aerial and light, not oil-soaked. The calamari was accurately presented with a admixture of greens and chopped onions. The two dipping sauces – candied chili and tzatziki – were appropriately refreshing.
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The breaded calamari was ablaze and fluffy.
The basa was a highlight – a fresh, firm, moist, flavourful angle filet altogether seared on a bed of chick-pea sized but decidedly bendable cous cous, in about-face ladled aloft a lemongrass-scented adulate sauce. This bowl would be a stand-out in any “elegant” restaurant: One advantage to bistro in a bar/eatery cross-over, the amount at $21 was a third lower than what would be answerable in a fine-dining establishment.
The Moroccan craven had acceptable arrangement and a attenuate coconut-tomato sauce. But absolute Moroccan, arranged with appealing spices and heat, this was not. It was a afraid adaptation of the Arctic African bird.
While delicate, the Moroccan craven lacked aroma and character.
As for angle tacos and bounce bloom – meh, not bad, not great, your accepted apery of the JOEY/Earls versions.
Yes, the candied gooeyness did run out of the chocolate-covered topping on the tiramisu back burst – like a chocolate-coated ice chrism bar with a broiled interior. It was a beautiful bar-room gimmick livening up a not-bad, in-house-made tiramisu.
Silk’s tiramisu with its smashing topping
It would be fun to absolutely absolve this artistic chef. But Silk, admitting actuality advertised as both restaurant and lounge, is afterwards the bar army first, maybe acquisitive a dining army will follow. If it’s a accomplished summer night on the Silk patio, this card could allure acute diners.
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But in the cool, aphotic interior, area the agents are focused on the black advanced rather than one or two parties out for banquet … I don’t anticipate so.
So apologetic to apprehend of the accidental of Nello Saporito, the adept freeholder of Il Pasticcio. Il Pasticcio – south of Jasper Avenue aloof off 116th Street, has continued been a accepted Italian dining spot, area the aliment never chock-full coming.
Nello’s anamnesis and affable will alive on. His son Tony Saporito is owner/operator of St. Albert’s Nello Italian Restaurant. Stepson James Burns offers a agnate appearance of ample Italian affable at Pazzo Pazzo, aloof west of burghal hall. Il Pasticcio is currently bankrupt – it is adamantine to brainstorm the restaurant after Nello greeting barter at the door.
• • •
The much-anticipated Meuwly’s accomplished meat deli/ accidental restaurant will accessible July 5 on 124 Street with its access alongside Northern Craven – aloof arctic of 107 Avenue. Freeholder Will Kotowicz has congenital a acceptability for authoritative the finest ability salamis accessible in the city.
• • •
Coming in July to South Edmonton Common, in what was Hudson’s Canadian Tap House, is a additional Haweli Pub and Eatery. Chef/proprietor Ramesh Devangodi (New Asian Village, Haweli Downtown) is developing a different pub-style card comprised of his own Arctic American/South Asian admixture dishes.
• • •
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The Keg in Old Strathcona has mysteriously shut its doors – every time I collection by, at atomic on weekends, it appears to be alive and full. An bottomless rumour suggests a altercation over the agreement of a charter renewal.
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