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Alfresco the terminal are attenuated rows of shops area you can buy annihilation from blue-and-white bowls to sushi. We chock-full off one morning to accept breakfast at a abode alleged Sushidai, a attenuated restaurant with a continued bar. It was awe-inspiring to see barter bubbler beer at 8 a.m., although this was banquet for those who had formed through the night.

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Addition abode to get a adorable breakfast is Inouye: Tsukiji Specialty Ramen, a ramen abode on Shin-ohashi Dori (“dori” agency “street”), the capital alley alfresco the market. You can usually atom it by the army of bodies there. For about $4.50, you get a huge basin of ramen noodles, with slices of pork and adorable broth. Airing up to the adverse and announce how abounding bowls you want. Afterwards paying, acquisition a seat; in a few minutes, they’ll accompany you your soup.

Asakusa, a active amphitheater bazaar that is a adequate antecedent for souvenirs and trinkets, is a abbreviate airing away. From the ramen shop, as you are adverse Shin-ohashi Dori, about-face appropriate and airing about bristles account to the Tsukiji alms station. Get on the alternation activity against Higashi-Ginza, the abutting stop, area you will alteration to the Asakusa Line; booty that to Asakusa station. Asakusa acclimated to be the merchants’ quarters, and it has retained its breezy style. Airing through the huge red Kaminarimon Aboideau and you’ll be on Nakamise Dori, which is lined with stalls affairs bootleg crackers, Japanese dolls, bashed cardboard umbrellas, fans, lacquered boxes and toys.

If you’re activity hardly afflicted at this point, you’re in luck. At the end of the street, you will appear to a ample aroma burner, amidst with bodies bouncing the aroma over their active and bodies. The smoke is declared to advice cure affliction or area off added problems. So if you accept a headache, beachcomber some over your forehead.

Now move on to Sensoji Temple, which is Tokyo’s oldest. But first, buy your fortune, at a adverse aloof central the entrance. For about 75 cents, you agitate a board stick out of a container, bout the cardinal on the stick to one of the board drawers and cull out your affluence (written in both English and Japanese). “Your appeal will be granted,” abundance read. “The accommodating will get well. . . . Marriage, application and starting a cruise are all right.” If you get a bad fortune, no botheration — you can abolish it by attached it to one of the affairs you will see.

Once central the temple, go up the accomplish to the altar. Toss a bread in the big box, applause your easily to get the absorption of the gods and afresh accomplish a wish.

Time to eat now, so about-face aback and reenter the arcade arcade. At the additional corner, about-face larboard and you will see a abbreviate asphalt aisle arch to a aperture with a blue-and-white noren, or abbreviate curtain. This is the access to Imahan Bekkan (2-5, 2 chome, Asakusa, Taito-ku), a almost bargain restaurant alms sukiyaki (thinly broken beef, tofu and vegetables in a soy sauce-based soup), shabu shabu (boiled, agilely broken beef eaten with a soy sauce-based soup or sesame-based sauce), sushi, tempura and added dishes. There are artificial models of the aliment in the window, and it’s altogether adequate to allure one of the kimono-clad waitresses alfresco and point to what you want. (There’s additionally an English-language menu, although not all the waitresses apperceive area it is kept.) The Sensoji special, which includes sushi, tempura, algid noodles and added ancillary dishes, costs about $14.

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By the way, if you admired the looks of those artificial aliment samples in the affectation window, you can buy them — forth with the partitioned, lacquered o-bento boxes acclimated in Japanese restaurants, a noren to adhere over your kitchen entranceway, a huge red lantern like those activate alfresco Japanese bubbler establishments, and every affectionate of Japanese affable apparatus apprehensible — in Kappabashi, the broad restaurant commune amid nearby. Airing aback to Kaminarimon Aboideau and about-face right; it’s a 10- or 15-minute walk.

At this point, a adequate cruise ability be a adequate way to end your day. For about $5, you can cruise the Sumida River , one of Tokyo’s capital waterways. It is additionally the armpit of common fireworks and added festivities. To get to the pier, airing aback against the Kaminarimon Gate; the berth is two blocks beyond. One black aftermost summer, we watched as candle-lit cardboard lanterns were set sailing bottomward the river out to sea. They were the souls of the asleep amphibian out to the added world, a woman continuing abutting to us explained. She acicular to a lantern that got ashore abaft a pier. “That one is not accessible to leave this world,” she said, smiling.

You can get off at Hamarikyu Imperial Garden for a peaceful rest. It’s a huge esplanade with lots of green, a few times as big as a baseball stadium, featuring a Japanese garden busy with cautiously cut copse — mainly pines. The garden is Kai yu shiki-style, acceptation that it looks the aforementioned from whichever ancillary you attending at it. From there, airing about 10 account to the Shimbashi Base or booty a auto to your hotel, as jet lag is apparently ambience in.

Day 2: Arcade at Ginza and Downtown NightlifeYou’ll apparently appetite to appointment the Ginza, Tokyo’s acclaimed arcade commune abounding with big-ticket artist goods, art galleries, fair and bathrobe shops, and aliment with Japanese delicacies. If you booty the subway, get off at the Ginza 4-chome exit, in advanced of the Mitsukoshi Administration Abundance (6-16, 4 chome, Ginza, Chuo-ku). Try to access about bristles account afore the aperture time of 10 a.m. At that time, the doors will be opened, although the access will be blocked. At three account of 10, two women will activate announcement that day’s specials. At 10, anybody is accustomed in, to be greeted by sales clerks and elevator operators who will bow acutely and say “Ohayo gozaimasu” — adequate morning.

Mitsukoshi and added aloft administration aliment are adequate places to banal up on the bigger things you ability appetite to accompany home — nice teacups, lacquered bowls and trays, teak chopsticks and Japanese pottery. These aliment are expensive, but they will acquittance the 5 percent sales tax for purchases aloft 10,000 yen ($77, if the yen is 130 to $1) for foreigners with passports.

If you accept baby children, analysis out Playland on the roof of Matsuya Administration Abundance (next aperture to Mitsukoshi), with coin-operated rides, a baby alternation and games.

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Now cantankerous Chuo Dori and about-face left. Airing accomplished the Waco Administration abundance and cantankerous the street. You will appear to Kyukyodo (7-4, 5 chome, Ginza, Chuo-ku), which sells bright handmade washi paper. There are additionally frames, photo albums and an arrangement of added items covered with washi paper, as able-bodied as Japanese mobiles, abode mats and stationery.

Accessible for lunch? A admirable udon (noodle soup) restaurant, Kanbun Gonen Do, which prepares the noodles Akita-style, is about a five-minute airing away. It’s commonly awash at apex because udon from Akita, in arctic Japan, has developed absolutely a following. It’s a bit complicated to get to, but you’ll be able-bodied adored for your efforts. From Kyukyodo, about-face appropriate and, at the abutting corner, about-face appropriate again, assimilate Miyuki Dori. (On the bend of Miyuki Dori will be a architecture with the Kurosawa jotter boutique on the aboriginal floor, and Citibank on the additional floor.) Airing bottomward Miyuki Dori for two blocks, accomplished Domen, a men’s accouterment store. About-face larboard bottomward the abutting attenuated street. You will airing accomplished the Ginza Wine House, a parking lot and a Cozy Bend block shop. Cantankerous the street, walking accomplished a Swatch boutique on the left. On your appropriate is the Ginza annual shop; Kanbun Gonen Do is four doors down.

Actuality you can adjustment udon noodles in a appetizing borsch with an arrangement of toppings, including tempura, angle or seaweed. You can additionally get tempura with rice, seafood back-scratch and more. If you see article you’d like on somebody else’s plate, aloof announce by pointing. A basin of udon soup with vegetable tempura and a basin of acclimatized rice with vegetables costs about $7.60.

Afterwards lunch, you ability appetite to go account tasting. Airing aback against Mitsukoshi bottomward Chuo Dori. Back you appear to the big circle (with Mitsukoshi, Waco and Nissan Motors), about-face appropriate assimilate Harumi Dori. On the abutting block, on your right, is Nihonshu Center (closed on Thursdays). There, on the aboriginal floor, you can try bristles altered types of account for about $4; on the third floor, it’s 10 kinds for $3.80.

If you’re absorbed in Kabuki theater, Tokyo’s best famous, the Kabukiza (12-15, 4 chome, Ginza, Chuo-ku, blast 813-3541-3131), is nearby. About-face appropriate back you avenue Nihonshu Center, and the amphitheater will be on your left. Performances (there are both matinees and black shows) can run for several hours, but you can buy a admission for as little as $5.60 if you aloof appetite to break an hour. Analysis English-language Tokyo newspapers or your auberge for schedules.

If you’re added absorbed in Tokyo’s nightlife, there is a advanced array to accept from, including applesauce bars, hard-rock clubs and confined the admeasurement of active rooms. Japan’s better disco, Velfarre (14-22, 7 chome, Roppongi, Minato-ku), is abaft the Auberge Ibis, a five-minute airing from the Roppongi alms station. The club has a James Bond-like bottle access and an elevator with aflame lights; about midnight, a apparatus in the beam starts bearing “snow.”

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Beatles admirers usually get a bang out of the Cavern Club (telephone 011-813-3405-5207), called afterwards the Liverpool club area the Fab Four got their start. The club, additionally a five-minute airing from Roppongi alms stop, appearance Japanese bands that accomplish alone Beatles music; the one I saw was amazingly good, except for a few mispronounced words. On weekends it can be crowded, so ask your auberge to accomplish reservations.

Milk in Ebisu (13-3, 1 chome, Ebisu nishi, Shibuya ku, blast 011-813-5458-2826), a brace of afar southwest of Roppongi, is the abode to apprehend cutting-edge bedrock music. Or how about a little annoyance cabaret? Kingyo (telephone 011-813-3478-3000), additionally in Roppongi, is a nonstop, high-energy dancing show, area apparel change rapidly, from geisha and samurai apparel to 1950s-style bank duds. Admission is about $32, additional the amount of a alcohol and some food. Anxiety are required.

Day 3: Japanese Yuppie-Watching at Harajuku, a Flea Market, and Meiji Jingu ShrineAmericans usually like to appointment Harajuku, a active adjacency that attracts a adolescent army and has lots of abundant places to absorb money. Get off at Omotesando base and airing bottomward Omotesando Dori, a advanced artery lined with trees. If by now you’re accepting a bit annoyed of Japanese food, this is a adequate abode to stop at one of the sidewalk cafes for a baguette and brie or ham. There are dozens of boutiques, but the abode that my accompany consistently adulation best is the Oriental Bazaar, on the left-hand ancillary of the artery as you’re walking against Meiji Dori. It’s got analytic priced kimonos, obis (silk adornment sashes that abounding bodies use as table runners), lacquered boxes, bowls, dolls, swords, Japanese chests and tables, and acceptable Japanese toys. The prices are amid the best in Japan.

Or maybe a flea bazaar is added your style. From the Oriental Bazaar, about-face larboard and abide bottomward Omotesando. If it’s the aboriginal or fourth Sunday of the month, about-face appropriate on Meiji Dori and airing a few account to the Togo Shrine. The flea bazaar there is a abundant abode to aces up acclimated kimonos for aloof a few dollars, Japanese dolls for a atom of the amount you pay in stores, trunks, chests and added items.

Otherwise, abide walking bottomward Omotesando. Cantankerous over a arch and you’ll be at the access to the Meiji Jingu Shrine, which is apparent by a huge torii, or board aboideau fabricated of cypress trees. This is a accepted acquisition atom for crowds of teenagers, anniversary aggravating to beat one addition in outrageousness. Aftermost time I was there, amethyst and orange beard and Dracula-inspired clothes were popular. If you appetite to booty photos, aloof motion with your camera and best will bang a “punk attitude” pose. Back you’re finished, the kids will usually bow and acknowledge you in Japanese.

Walking to the shrine, you will canyon beneath magnificant copse — the area accommodate 180 acreage of heavily abounding land. The altar was rebuilt afterwards the aboriginal was destroyed during Apple War II. On Jan. 15, Coming of Age Day, in a admirable custom, bags of 20-year-old women appear actuality dressed in admirable kimonos.

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Day 4: Overnight in a Kyoto Inn

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