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Rich Landau knew he’d made it aback he took the salt off the table.

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As the chef abaft Willow Grove’s vegan Horizons Cafe, Landau had for years longed for the cachet signaled by a table without salt and pepper. After a analysis accepted his ability of seasoning, Landau began to resent the shakers themselves, as admitting they were obstacles befitting him from extensive his comestible pinnacle.

In 2006, when he opened Horizons in Philadelphia, the tables were shaker-free.

“The alkali was so iconic to me aback again with what it represented,” said Landau, who with wife Kate Jacoby now co-owns the acclaimed Vedge, V Street, and Wiz Kid. “Moving it off the table was such a big affair for us. I’ll never balloon it.”

Landau is one of abounding chefs who continued ago larboard alkali and pepper shakers behind, relegating them to dining apartment of the past. Many say it’s because a absolutely chef-focused restaurant should serve aliment that is acclimatized to perfection. Others abandon the cheap, iodized table alkali acclimated in shakers. Some additionally affirm by the cleaner aesthetic accomplished by a table set after added adornments.

It’s continued been accepted for top-tier restaurants to abandon tabletop alkali and pepper. But over the aftermost decade, as the dining arena confused from a starched-tablecloth ambiance against a added accidental experience, alkali has vanished from the tables of bashful BYOBs, adjacency hangouts, alike gastropubs — establishments with chefs who are committed to crafting their own menus.

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“You aloof don’t see any aboveboard restaurants with alkali and pepper on the table anymore,” Landau said. “Sorry, it’s true.”

Chef Marc Vetri said an admirable meal is additionally about ambience, the spell casting by a restaurant area aggregate from the flowers on the table to the admeasurement of the dishes and apparatus flows together.

“You appetite to set the stage,” he said. “A alkali shaker sitting out on the table doesn’t attending appropriate to me. It’s added like article you’d see at a diner.”

At Vetri Cucina, he serves pasta and meat that he considers angrily — alike aggressively — seasoned. Still, maybe already a anniversary or so, a booth requests salt.

“I could never get mad at anyone for it,” he said. “If addition asks for it, it’s not a big deal. But at atomic eat it first. Accept a bite. It should be acclimatized the appropriate way, but acutely it is subjective. And association should apperceive that, hey, they’re not behind the chef if they ask.”

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Steve Cook, who co-owns Zahav, Abe Fisher, and added restaurants with chef Michael Solomonov, said not alms alkali has added to do with accouterment absolute accommodation than absorption the ego of a chef.

“When that aliment leaves the kitchen, it’s to be accessible to eat. The bedfellow shouldn’t accept to do anything,” he said. “We’re not accomplishing our job if the aliment isn’t advancing out acclimatized aloof right.”

When acclimated correctly, chefs say, alkali isn’t declared to accomplish a meal salty. It’s acclimated to accompany out the flavors of the food.

“You appetite to put in every distinct atom of alkali that bowl will take, up to the point aback it becomes salty,” Cook said. “You appetite to booty it appropriate to the edge.”

At Zahav, which serves meat, fish, and a array of vegetables, guests do occasionally ask for salt. But Cook said servers are added likely to acreage comments about the adverse problem.

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“When we were allotment our cookbook, we joked about calling it Zahav: Loud, Dark and Salty,” he said. “Those are the complaints we get. It would apparently be added advantageous to some of our guests if we put alkali remover on the table.”

Chef Dominic Piperno of the Collingswood restaurant Hearthside said aback he began his career about a dozen years ago, alkali was still a frequent afterimage on restaurant tables. He saw less absorption to detail in agreement of condiment than he said is now commonplace at abounding establishments. At Hearthside, sauces are able by barometer alkali bottomward to the grain.

A above sous-chef at Vernick, Piperno said aback he larboard his job in Center City and started affable for South Jersey diners, he additionally noticed what seemed to be a accepted aberration in palates.

“If we acclimatized as we did at Vernick, bodies would accuse it was too salty,” he said. “But for me, I feel like putting alkali and pepper shakers on the table and under-seasoning aliment is activity backward. … I’d rather one out of every 30 or 40 bodies say something’s too acrid than accept bodies say it needs salt.”

Published: June 27, 2018 — 5:00 AM EDT

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