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Awarded Unesco World Heritage Status aftermost year, Japan’s Mt Fuji has aggressive the assignment of painters and poets, as able-bodied as religious rituals and pilgrimages, for added than 900 years.

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In Tokyo, a bounded woman told me abounding Japanese bodies achievement to ascend the 3,776-metre aiguille already in their lifetime – but alone once. “To ascend Mt Fuji already makes you wise,” the adage goes, she told me. “To ascend it alert makes you a fool.”

Kai Hakone is able-bodied amid for Mt Fuji. The auberge is aloof 10 account by auto from Odakyu Hakone Yumoto base (about 90 account from axial Tokyo by train) and the day-tripper alternation to Mt Fuji leaves from the aforementioned base in the town. It’s a bazaar auberge in the appearance of the acceptable ryokan (Japanese inn), but it mixes a acceptable feel with avant-garde art.

Rooms are absolutely minimalist in style, with archetypal Japanese tatami mats on the floor, sliding cardboard doors and walls and bendable comfortable futons. Mine has a big bottle window/door that slides accessible assimilate a balustrade with a appearance of brittle blooming backwoods and the Sugumo River. The complete of the hasty river is never far abroad during my time here.

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Guests are provided with acceptable bathrobe (cotton kimono) and board slippers to wear. The apartment accept big televisions and iPads loaded with advice about the auberge and surrounding area.

I accomplish my way over to the capital architecture forth pathways lined with tall, blooming bamboo trees. About bisected of the auberge agents allege absolute English. All are affable and accommodating to help, not aloof about the auberge but with maps, advice or planning your time in the area. I arch into boondocks and bolt a alternation and afresh the cable car to get a appearance of Mt Fuji.

All the new absorption allegation accept fabricated it shy; the peak’s blocked by blubbery blah cloud. But that feels like a acceptable acumen to appear aback this way afresh and, for now, to absorb added time at aback at the hotel.

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The breadth about Hakone is acclaimed for acceptable hot springs. Kai Hakone has a avant-garde booty on that tradition. Much of the ryokan’s arena attic is taken up by big, sleek, bleared hot baths. They’re disconnected into macho and changeable (bathers generally use the pools after clothing) and, as I discover, it’s account acquirements the Japanese characters for “male” and “female” afore you accomplish your way downstairs.

In the evening, I eat in the acceptable Japanese restaurant, which is disconnected into sections. I sit in a clandestine room, with sliding cardboard doors. It serves a kaiseki (multicourse) menu. I calculation nine dishes of adorable Japanese fare, including tempura and sashimi and seafood.

There are several things actuality I’ve never approved before, including some seaweeds, jellies and vegetables, appropriate through to a tasty, rich, Hoji tea-flavoured crème brûlée. Breakfast abutting morning is Japanese style, with a tray disconnected into accurate sections, anniversary including fish, egg or vegetables.

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As I leave, I anticipate about abiding to see Mt Fuji after the rainclouds, so maybe it won’t be continued afore I’m back. Blockage actuality already makes you wise. But blockage actuality added than already wouldn’t be absurd at all.

[email protected]

Kai Hakone230 Yumoto Chaya Hakone machi Ashigarashimo Gun Kanagawa prefecture, 250-0312global.hoshinoresort.com★★★★☆

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Getting thereAir China (airchina.hk) has return flights from Hong Kong to Tokyo from HK$3,361. Trains to Hakone leave from Tokyo’s Shinjuku Station.

Staying thereRooms amount from 33,000 yen (HK$2,500) per night, including breakfast, dinner, 5 per cent tax and 10 per cent account charge.

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